Weather Changes but Not Our Habits 12-20-25

We woke up to a not quite constant rain today but our enthusiasm was undaunted. Today was our first chance to go to the flea market at the Porte de Vanves. Our dilatory habits in the morning sort of derailed us as the market only runs until about 1:00pm and we started out around 10:30. So we walked to Gare de l’Est and caught a taxi across town. Not an inexpensive way to travel but sometimes saving time is more important than a few extra dollars. 

We arrived at the market just after 11:15 and immediately started trolling. We knew that we couldn’t cover the entire market in the remaining interval but we were determined to see a much as possible. We made a quick foray up the main side street and then doubled back to the group of booths along the main street fronting the market. This being the last weekend before Christmas most of the vendors had turned out to sell. There were a number of gaps, but the weather probably discouraged some vendors, especially those that would have damaged offerings due to the rain. Fortunately the rain held off and there were not more than a couple little sprinkles the entire time we were there. Deb has been searching for a piece to fill in an earlier gift we had given to our nephew’s partner. I was (as usual) hunting for bicycling medals. Deb had good luck and I had all my money in my pocket. Still we have been here a few times when the weather was worse and we survived so today was a pleasure.

When we left the market it was already in the Parisian lunch time window so we had to make decisions. Our first decision was to take the bus that comes up to Gare de l’Est and watch for places to eat on the way. As we got adjacent to the Luxembourg Gardens I remembered a restaurant that we really love. It’s called Bouillon Racine and it was about 50 meters off of our route. So we got off the bus and knowing the area so well, I promptly took us down the wrong street.  It took me about a block to figure out my mistake and then we had to backtrack and walk down two more blocks to the correct street. The worst part was that I dithered about the bus stop and second guessed myself. By the time we got to the restaurant it was 2:00 and we were seriously concerned that they may have stopped serving. Good fortune was on our side and they seated us immediately.  We adore Bouillon Racine for two reasons, first off the food is excellent and the prices while not exactly cheap are very fair for the quality of the offerings.  Secondly the restaurant is decorated in the same manner as it was in 1906 at its founding, all Art Nouveau, and it’s magnificent. Beautiful woodwork in the swirling flowery Art Nouveau style, then filled in with mirrors and tiles from the same period.  Today we both started with the chestnut soup, a traditional offering. Then Deb had a veal cutlet served with braised carrots while I had 

a faux fillet (beef steak) which also had braised carrots along with a molded potato puree. I think the clientele is mostly French but there are a good smattering of tourists like us as well.  The portions were ample so today we skipped having a dessert.  It was almost 4:00 when we finished so we decided to make it back to the apartment.  We went back the 50 meters to our bus stop and settled in to wait for our bus. After several minutes I happened to look up on a monitor to see the next arrival time. It said that due to a strike or demonstration the route had been cancelled until further notice. This happened to us a couple years ago and we had to walk close to a mile to get past the disturbances to connect with our bus. Luckily, today I figured out that we could take a bus diagonally up to Gare St. Lazare and catch a bus heading back in our direction. Along the way we passed several of the Grand Magazins (department stores) that were decorated for Christmas. They go all out and are very attractive.

This is a picture of the facade of Printemps.  We were able to link up with the crosstown bus towards Gare du Nord. We then transferred to the bus taking us back to Gare de l’Est. From there it was a 10 minute walk home, with a stop to pick up a baguette for tomorrow. The forecast for tomorrow is serious rain, so we’ll see what that does to our flitting about.